With worse conditions, you need more aggressive techniques. Depending on the contamination, you might only need to wash with water. If water sprinkled on the wall is not readily absorbed, then the surface must be handled differently. Generally, stucco that is applied directly to solid surfaces is placed in two coats that together total 5/8 inch of thickness. Unless it’s very hot, dry and/or windy, moisture on the wall together with that in the plaster is usually sufficient for curing. It dampens the unit, reducing its water demand and the potential of premature dryout. This prepares the unit surface to absorb paste from plaster. Immediately prior to plastering, the wall should be pre-wetted. If it is readily absorbed, then the surface is expected to bond well with stucco. Potential for bond can be quickly checked by a simple test: sprinkle the wall with some water to see how it absorbs. Partial bond will create undesirable stresses and can lead to delamination and cracking of the stucco layer. The entire surface must have uniform bonding potential or you can run into problems. Older walls may have bond-inhibiting characteristics, in the form of paint, sealer, or some other coating or dirt on the surface. This is generally not a concern with new walls. If contamination is present on the substrate surface, good bond is inhibited. Concrete masonry surfaces are both absorbent and textured, two things necessary for bond. ASTM Standard C 926, Specification for Application of Portland Cement-Based Plaster, permits direct application of stucco to solid surfaces like concrete and masonry as long as bond is sufficient. Portland cement adheres well to lots of materials, especially to other materials made from the same type of ingredients. As such, they have a great affinity for each other. Stucco is made from the same materials as concrete and concrete masonry. With a substrate of concrete or concrete masonry, is it necessary to use lath? Metal lath is regularly used over stud wall construction with or without sheathing materials. If your walls are even everywhere else and in good condition, you can use any general wall primer.This question probably arises because plaster is often attached to wall surfaces that have metal lath affixed to them. My walls needed a good prime as they were uneven where old paint had been removed from removing the wallpaper, so I used Ever Build Fill Coat to even out the walls and block any stains. Step 5: Primeīefore you paint or decorate you’ll need to prime your wall and cover over the filler so there is no mismatch in colouration when you apply your topcoat. After sanding, if there were any pitted or problem areas, I added a bit more One Strike and sanded again. I just sanded back until the filler and the wall were level and there were no lumps or bumps. I used an electric palm sander with a fine grade sandpaper (if you do not have one then a sanding block will do the trick). It says on the tub of one One Strike that you do not need to sand after application, but as a DIYer as opposed to a professional (and the hole itself being huge), I found I did need to sand to achieve a level surface. If you want to try this out for yourself in your own home, this is my easy step-by-step guide to how I did it… As it turns out, after a bit of research and buying some recommended products, I managed to fix the wall in a couple of days! I’m delighted with the end result - the wall now is strong, sturdy and smooth. A few small taps on the walls with my hand and the remaining plaster dropped to the floor! I really didn’t want to spend much money redecorating this room - even if I expected I probably would have to call in a professional plasterer to fix this situation, I wanted to at least try and DIY it myself first. The discovery of the large hole was made when I removed wallpaper in this room (to be honest, the wallpaper was the only thing holding the wall together!) When I removed the paper - a lot of plaster came with it. This wall had previously encountered water damage from the window sill above it, and even though the cause of the water infiltration was fixed some time ago, the interior plaster had just caved. It was 80cm wide, sandy, broken and crumbly. Although I’ve always been confident enough to fill small drill holes and general wear and tear in my plastered walls, the huge size of the hole to be repaired in my home office absolutely terrified me.
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